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1,625,633 Aprll 19, 1927. C. THERO MACHINE FOR OVERCASTING THE EDGES OF FABRECS 1,625,633 April 19, 1927. C- THERO MACHINE FOR OVERCASTING THE EDGES OF FABRICS Filed Aufl, 4. 1924 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 pifil 19, H52?. 1,625,633

c. THERQ MACHINE FOR OVERCASTINC' THE EDGES OF FABRICS Filed Aug. 4. 1924 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Apr. 19, 1927.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLEY THERO, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

MACHINE FOR OVERCAS'IING THE EDGES OF FABRICS.

Application filed August 4, 1924.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in a machine for over-casting or cmf'ering the edge of a. fabric or the like.

An object of the invention is to produce an overcasting or edge covering wherein a looper thread is stretched along the edge of the fabric and is secured against said edge by needle thread loops which are in turn secured to the fabric by said looper thread.

Another object, of the invention consists in bending the edge portion to be overcasted or covered at an angle to the plane of the body portion of the fabric, passing a needle along one face of the bent portion :rnd through the Jfabric at the bend therein, carrying the bight of the needle thread loop to the edge of the 'fabric and seem-ing the needle thread loops by a looper thread extending along the edge of the fabric.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machine oll the above type having a'` bending bar with a knife edge lying along the needle pnnctures over which the fabric can be bent and be position so that the needle will pass therethrough at the bend in the fabric.

A further object of the invention is to provide a presser bar for bending the fabric and holding the same against the bar having a knife edge.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a1 linger and cooperating devices for stretching and positioning the looper thread at the fabric edge.

'lhese and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully described.

In the drawings, which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention Figure. l is a view, partly in section and partly in side elevation, showing a' portion of the machine embodying the improvements;

Fig. 2 is a view, part-ljv in section and partl): in plan, of the parts shown in Fig. l;

Fig. 8 is a detail on an enlarged scale of the guide bar and the parts supporting the same;

Fig. i is a detail on an enlarged scale of the supporting guide over which the fabric is bent and the means for supporting the same;

Serial No. 730,015.

Fig. o is a detail in plan and on an enlarged scale lshowing the means for supporting the guide bar and the tension controlling member;

Fig. o is an enlarged detail showing the knife edge of the support-ing bar;

Fig. 7 is a view, partly in section and on an enlarged scale, from the front of the machine showing the turning over bar with the linger or longue carried thereby which positions the looper thread;

Fig. S is a similar view of the supporting linger and the turning bar taken from the feeding ont side of the feed cups or wheels;

Fig. t) is a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 7;

Fig. 1t) is a sectional View through the needle bar and the needle. thread tensioning devices carried thereby; also showing in de tail the operating cam for the tensioning devices;

Fig. 11 is a side View of the parts .shown in Fig. l0;

Fig. 12 is a top plan view on an enlarged scale showing the edge portion of a fabric covered by the improved process and ma.- chine for carrying out the process;

Fig. 13 is a view similar to Fig. 12 but showing the parts in their normal scale;

Fig. la is a bottom view of the overcasting or edge covering shown in Fig. 13; and

Fig. 15 is a perspective view on an enlarged scale showing the bend in the fabric and the needle and looper for forming the overcasting.

The invention is directed broadly to a machine for producing an overcasting or edge covering for a hat sweat, and consists in forming needle thread loops which are passed through the hat sweat back from the edge thereof, and wherein the bight of said needle thread loops and the needle thread connecting adjacentloops are laid at the edge of the hat sweat where they are secured by a. looper thread which is stretched along the edge and is interwoven with the needle thread so as to be held straight and stretched against the edge of the fabric. This provides a means whereby the hat sweat can be readily secured in another seaming oper:- tion to the hat. The invention is, of course, capable of other uses, but this is the particular purpose for which it is designed and, therefore, the process and machine will be ffii described as related to the forming of an overcasting or edge covering for a hat sweat.

The process consists broadly in bending` the hat sweat at the edge portion which is to` be covered or overcasted at an angle to the body portion of the hat sweat and pren senting the saine to a :reciprocatingI thread carrying needle so that said needle may pass along the lower face of the bent over por tion and penetrate the hat sweat at the bend therein. The needle thread loop is caught by a .looper and laid against the upper face of the bent over portion with the bight thereof at the edge of the hat sweat. The looper thread carried by the looper' passes over the needle thread loop at the bight therein and underneath the sha'nlr portion of the needle thread loop on the other side of the bent over portion, and thus the two parts, that is the :iight of the needle thread loop and the shanlr thereof, are secured together and at the saine tiine these parts of the needle thread loop securely hold the looper thread. The loo 3er thread is stretched along the edge of the fabric and is held against the edge of the fabric by the interconnected parts of the needle thread loops and the needle thread extending between adjacent needle thread loops.

The processV is preferably carried out on a machine having rotating feed wheels or cups for supporting the hat sweat` said hat sweaty being positioned between said feed cups so as to entend above the saine to the extent that the edge portion is to be overcasted or covered. The part which projects above the feed cups is bent over a guide bar having `a. knife edge, which lrni't'e edge engagesY the hat sweat along the line of the needle punctures. The bent over portion is held against said guide bar by a presser bar. Mounted on the presser bar is a stitch linger which aids in holding the bent over portion of the hatV sweat against the guide bar beneath the saine and also in positioning the looper thread at the edge of 'the hat sweat.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, the sewing machine consists of a suitable frame l, in which is mounted a reciprocating needle bar 2 carrying a needle 3. The hat sweat or fabric which is to have its edge portion covered or overcasted is ipported by the feed cups d and which are rotated in the usual way. Cooperating with the needle 3' is a looper (i carried by a looper support- 7. rlhis looper is of the usual construction and has an oscillation at one side ofthe line of needle punctures which causes its looper to enter a needle thread loop, and then a movement to the other side of the over-casting or edge covering wherein it is positioned so that the needle passes over the looper thread..

Extending outwardly froin the frame l is a bracket' arin 8 on which is mounted a.

messes supportingl bar 9 which extends around the inner feed cup 4e at the inside thereof to a position past where the needle crosses said feed cup. rthe edge of this` supporting bar 9 is inclined to forni a knife edge l0 over which the hat sweat is bent. Said hat sweat is bent over this knife edge support by ineans of a presser bar l1. .lllxtending for` wardly from the bracket l2 which supports the outer feed cup is an ariu Y13 on which this presser bar il is mounted. .fr screw llt pass-es through the shank oi the presser bar and is threaded into the arni lll directlyY beneath the saine. An adjustable screw l5 is also threaded through the shank of the presser bar ll and rests on the upper face of the supporting arin lill. 'ihus it is that the presser bar niay be raised and lowered relative to the needle. The screw llt is loosened and the screw l5 turned down in order to raise the presser bar; the screw l5 is turned up and the screw .let turned in in order to lower the presser bar. 'llhe above ineans for adjusting the presser bar enables the inachine to be set for operating upon ditl'erent thicknesses of fabric and also provides for more or les.; of a resilient support for the presser bar.

'.ilhe presser bar is also provided with a stitch linger lo which projects over the needle path. 'lhe needle in its reciprocatiou passes into the guide slot li". rlhis linger is for the purpose of guiding the looper thread and stretching the saine along the edge oit the hat sweat. A guide bar 1S is carried by the bracket arin 8 and extends to a point beyond the line of reciprocation of the needle. lt is forined with a groove l!) through which the needle passes and with a guiding lip 2O underneath which lthe looper thread is laid. This guide bar with its guiding lip operates to position the looper thread at the edge of the fabric and retains it in this position unt-il it is secured there by nieans of the needle thread loops. This guide bar 18 is secured to the bracket 8 by ineans of screws 2l and Located between these screws is an axis or fulcruin part 29. lt will readily be seen that by manipulating the screws 2l and 22 this guide bar may be rocked on its axis 23 and the outer end thereof raised and lowered.

The improved process and the operation of the inachine for carrying it out niay possibly be best understood by reference to Figs. l2 and l59 wherein the hat sweat or fabric hai/ing the edge portion to be overcasted or covered is indicated at The edge portion to be covered is indicated at 25. its clearly shown in l5, this edge portion is bent at an angle substantially at right angles to the plane of the body portion and the bend in the fabric is at a point just above the grip of the feed cups. rl`he needle 3 reciprocates in a line which is sul Sti zit)

stantially parallel with this bent-Over portion and passing underneath the same, so that the needle penetrates the fabric at the bend. Successive needle punctures are indicated at 2G in Fig. l5 ol the drawings.

lt will he understood, ot' course, that the knife edge supporting bar is underneath this bent-over portion, and the kui't'e edge lies along the -line ol' the needle pnnctures. The presser bar lies on top ot the bent-over portion and holds it against the supporting bar. The needle passing through the groove 19, see Fig. 5, passes across the end ot the knit'e edge support, and thus can enter the itabric at the bend made in the fabric by the cooperation ol' the presser bar and the knite edge support. rlhe stitch linger 1G cooperating with the guide bar le will retain the edge portion bent over and will also direct the looper thread along the edge 25. The needle thread is indicated at 2S. Said needle thread is termed into needle thread loops in the usual way. One ot' these needle thread loops is indicated at 2f) where it has been caught by the louperl t and carried to the edge ol" the fabric.

The needle on its next reciprocation will pass between the looper thread, indicated at 30, and the body portion ot the looper l and will be held by the` needle cooperating with the stitch tinger and the supporting member 2t) along the edge ot the tabric. .Yhen the looper inores forward to enter the ncxt succeeding needle loop, said looper thread being a heavy thread will draw the shank ol the needle thread loop to a position at the edge ot the it'abrie so that the looper thread in eltect passes underneath the shank ot the needle thread loop and over the bight ol the needle thread loop. This is clearly shown in Fig. l2 of the drawings. ln other words, the needle thread loop is brought to the edge ot the tahric, the shank also liesI at. the edge et' the 'tabric, and the connecting needle thread between the adjacent loops lies at the edge olE the fabric, and the looper thread is interwoven with these parts ot the needle thread loops in such a way as to lie straight along the edge. The looper thread may, there't'ore, serre as an anchoring: in ans 'tor the stitching ot the hat sweat to the hat band. By the bending ot the edge portion to be covered or orcrcasted as above described, the parts in the` needle thread loops may be brought to the edge oli the 'tabric simply by the looper and the needle, and thus properly positioned Ytor the locking ot the saine by the looper thread laid at the edge ot the hat sweat.

ln order that the looger thread may be laid in stretched condition along the edge olf the hat sweat or fabric being overcasted or covered. the tension on the needle thread must be very light and tor only a portion ot' the stitch forming cycle. In order to aceomplish this, on the needle head 3l is a thread tension 32 which reciprocates with said needle head. This tension device is so controlhal as to put` a tension on the needle needle thread to run without tension l'or the remainder ol the stitch cycle. aid tension consists oll a casing l-l in which a pressure holt 34 moves axially and a tension disk 85 which moves on tl e housing or casing 233 and is connected to the bolt let by means ol.I a pin lt. 'this bolt 3l has a slotl Si at its inner end7 in which the piu lo is placed and subject to the action ot the spring in between the head 3f) olf the bolt l-'l and the tension disk 35. 'the housingl or casing i3 also has a slot -ltl which permits the tension disk $55 to reciprocate subject, ot course, to the action ot the spring 13S. (ln the needle head is a spring stl which bears against the end oli the pressure bolt :ll and holds the tension 'lor the needle thread open. A cani plate l2 operates on the head 3l) ot the bolt to more the saine to the le'lt, as viewed in Fig. ll, to set the tension. 'this cani plat-c l2 is so shaped that it onl\Y engages this head ot the bolt at the time when the needle is atl the outer end ot' its stroke and has passed through the hat sweat. 'this enables the needle to draw up on the needle thread just l`or a short time.

'the cani plate e2 is carried by an arin el?) which in turn is mounted on a bracket S above referred to. Said arm is carried directly by a supporting member lvl which is capable olf adjustment in the direction ol' reciprocation ol.l the needle through the aid ot slots 5M-t5 and the screws -il-.tP-ittt Said arni -Ll can be moved endwise `in this supporting member by means of a shifting bolt li. It is understood, ot course, that other means may be provided Ytor supporting the operating cani il'or sett-ing the tension and, therct'ore, the present structure has only been brictly reterred to.

It is obvious that minor changes in details of construction and the arrangement. ot the parts may be made without departing lroin the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

lVhat I claim as new is:-

l. A machine lor forming an edge covering 'for a l'abric, comprising a thread carrying reciprocating needle, means tor supporting said labric with the body portion thereot' in a plane at right angles to the line oi! reciprocation ot the needle. moans lor turning the edge portion ot the itabric to be covered at the stitching point so that said edge portion lies in a plane substantially parallel with the line of reciprocation elE the needle, means for engaging the needle thread loops and for placing the same against the -tace of the bent portion of the tahrc opposite that passed hy the needle as it moves thread only :l'or a short time, permitting the ntl lid

(itl

to penetrate the fabric, and ineans for placing a looper thread along the edge ol the 'fabric and for interlocking; the saine with the needle thread loops on one 'tace ot the Al'abric and the shanlie of the naine loops on the other 'tace ot' the fabric.

2. A machine for forming a'n edge core"- ing tor a 'ialiiric including a horizontally reciprocating needle nieann 'tor support-.ing the 'fabric in Substantially i` vvertical plane, means ttor bending 'the portion oit the i'abric to be covered into a plane at snbetantialhY right angles to the plane oit the body itfabric. and preeenting the saine 'to the, needle eo that said needle pannes underneath the bent portion and penet 'aten` the 'fabric at the bend therein, and ineaiin ter placingthe neeole it; laying the looper thread in a straight liie along the edge oit the 'fabi-ic, said looper panning over the loops ot' the needle and underneath the alianlei oi' Said thread loope whereby said needle loops are yeeciii'ed and the loopcr thread iS alsio Securely licld ajcniinf-it the aleje ot the tabric.

.23. A niacliine ,tor 'ioriiiing' an edge covering: tor i iiabrie including a hoi'iiioiitally reciprocating need le, nieans tor supporting the iabric inY eubriitantially ay vertical plane. niezzna 'ior bendingl the portion oil the fabric to be covered into a plane at substantially right angles to the plane oit the body fabric, and presenting the saine to the needle Sio that Isaid needle pannes inideriieath the bent portion and penetia'teey the iliabric at the bend thereinA and ineens for placing the nee/tile thread loops against the upper tace et the portion to be covered and the bigijh'te thereof' :it the edge oi the fabric, nieanS 'for laying the looper thread in a st aight line alongl the edge oli they fabric, said looper thread passin;y over the loops ol' the needle thread and iiiidei'i'ieath the Shanks et said needle thread loope whereby said needle thread loopa are eeciii'et and the looper thread is alf-lo eeciii'ely held against the edge ot lthe 'Fabrica said nicane for bending the tiabric ineludinn' a Supporting bar having' a l-:ni'fe edge located substai'itially at the line of the needle punctiires and over which the tzibric in bent, amL a bending' bar 'toi' engaging the other t'aee et the 'fabric and layingA the naine against said Suifiportingi' bar.

1l. A n'raehine for torniingl an edge cover'- ing 'lor a 'fabric including a horizontally re cii'noeating needle, ineane for Supporting; the itabric in substantially a vertical plane, n'ieana lor bending` the portion ol" the 'fabric to be covered into a plane at substantially right angles to the plane of the body fabric, and presentino' 'the saine to the needle so that said needle passee underneath the bent thread loopS againet the ipper tace it the portion to be covered and with tlie Uhh: therco't at the edge ol the ibric, incanti tir thread thread needle thread thread loops` are .seeiired and the loope-r 'thread ie also Securely held along the edge oi Vthe 'l`abrie, said means 'for bending the fabric including; a :supportingl bai' having a lcniio edge located siibatantially at the line oi'f the needle plinctni'es and over which the Yfabric is bent, and a bending bar for engaging the other tace o'l" the fabric and laying the saine against said i-iipporting bar,

and nieane 'l'or adjiietably'anpifiorting Said bending bar ii'hereby the passage between the bending ba and lthe supporting bar fan bc regulated to snit the thichnens of the liabric baring' he edge covering applied thereto.

fr in ichine vtor torining an edge cover- 'tabrie incliidinft;l a horizontally `:iiiirocatine' needle, ineens; for supporting e fabricy in eufiet-antially a vert-ical plane, inc-:ine 'tor bendingl the portion ot the fabric o be coiercd 'into a plane at Subatantially 'ight angles to the plane ot the body liabric, and presenting' the saine to the needle so that said needly passes iinderneath the bent portion and penetratee the 'fabric at the bend therein, and ineans 'for placing` the needle thread loops against the upper Atace ot the portion to be covered and the bights thereof at the edge of the 'tabrid means 'tor laying' the looper thread in a straight line along the edge oli the 'tabric, said looper thread paeeii'ig over the loops oli the needle thread and underneath the Shanks oit Said needle thread loops whereby said needle thread loops are secured and the ,looper thread is alf-:o Securely held against the edge otf the fabric. Said ineens tor bending` the 'fabric including a supporting bar having a 'imite edge lo ated substantialh at the line oli the needle pui'ictnrcs and over which the t'abrie is bent., and a bending' bar for engaging' the other tace ot the fabric and laying' the naine agrainot said :siipportingI bar, said bending bar having' a supporting' tongue which holds down the turned over "abrio alter it paneles the needle and which also e'iiides the looper thread onto the edge ot the fabric.

(i. n., machine 'for 'termina' an edge covering' por a 'liabric including' a horizontally i eiprocating needleS ineans for supporting i'pic tabrie in enbetantially a vertical plane5 iiicans toi' bendingthe portion o'l? the ,fabric to covered into a plane at Substantially be 'ight angles to the plane o'f the body fabric ind presenting' the saine to the needle so Yhat said needle paeses underneath the bent portion and penetrates the fabric at the bend therein, means for placing the needle thread loops against the upper face of the portion to be covered and the bights thereof at the edge of the fabric, means for laying the looper thread in a straight line along the edge of theI fabric. said looperI thread passing over the loops of the needle thread and underneath the shanlis of said needle thread loops whereby said needle thread loops are secured and the looper thread is also securely held against the edge of the fabric, said means for bending the fabric including a sui'uporting bar having a knife edge located substantially at the line ot' the needle punctures and over which the fabric is bent, and a bending bar for engaging the other face of the fabric and laying the saine against said supporting bar, said bending bar having a supporting tongue which holds down the turned over fabric after it passes the needle and which also guides the looper thread onto the edge of the fabric. and a guide bar below the turned over portion of the fabric for guiding the looper thread onto the edge of the fabric.

A. machine for forming an edge covering for a fabric including a horizontally reciprocating needle, ineans'for supporting the fabric in substantially a vertical plane, means for bending the portion of the fabric to be covered into a plane at substantially right angles to the plane of the body fabric and presenting the same to the needle so that said needle passes underneath the bent portion and penetrates the fabric at the bend therein, means for placing the needle thread loops against the upper face of the portion to be covered and the bights thereof at the edge of the fabric, means for laying the looper thread in a straight line along the edge of the fabric, said looper thread passing' over the loops of the needle thread and underneath the shanlis of said needle thread loops whereby said needle thread loops are secured and the looper thread is also securely held along the edge of the fabric. said means for bending the fabric including a supporting bar having a knife edge located substantially at the line of the needle punctures and over which the fabric is bent, and a bending bar for engaging the other face of the fabric and laying the same against said supporting bar, said bending bar having a supporting tongue which holds down the turned over fabric after it passes the needle and which also guides the looper thread onto the edge of the fa n'ic. a guide bar below the turned over portion of the fabric for guiding the looper thread onto the edge of the fabric, and means :for supporting said guide bar v-:hereby the height thereof may be varied for regulating the passage for the fabric between the guide bar and the support-ing tongue.

8. A machine for forming an edge covering for a fabric including a horizontally reciprocating needle, means for supporting the fabric in substantially a vertical plane, means for bending the portion of the fabric to be covered into a plane at substantially right angles to the plane of the body fabric and presenting the same to the needle so that said needle passes underneath the bent portion and penetrates the fabric at the bend therein, means for placing the needle thread loops against the upper face of the portion to be covered Aand the bighls thereof at the edge of the fabric, means for laying the looper thread in a straight line along the edge of the fabric, said looper thread passing over the loops of the needle thread and underneath the Shanks of said needle thread loops lwhereby said needle thread loops are secured and the looper thread is also securely held against the edge of the fabric, said means for bending the fabric including a supporting bar having a knife edge located substantially at the line of the needle punctures and over which the fabric is bent, and a bending bar for engaging the other face of the fabric and laying the same against said supporting bar, said bending bar having a supporting tongue which holds down the turned over fabric after it passes the needle and which also guides the looper thread onto the edge of the fabric, a guide bar below the turned over portion of the fabric for guiding the looper thread onto the edge of the fabric, a support for the guide bar having a rib, and screws on opposite sides of said rib for securing the guide bar to the support so that by adjusting the screws the guide bar may be shifted on said rib and adjusted in height relative to the tongue.

9. A machine for forming an edge covering for fabrics comprising a thread carrying reciprocating needle, means for supporting the fabric with the body portion thereof in a plane at an angle to the line of reciprocation of the needle, whereby said needle will penetrate said fabric, means for turning the edge portion of the fabric to be covered at the stitching point` so that said edge portion lies in a plane substantially parallel with the line of reciprocation of the needle, and means co-operatingl with said needle for laying a looper thread at the edge of the fabric intel-locked with said needle thread loops.

l0. A machine for forming an edge covering' for fabrics comprising a thread carrying` reciprocating needle, means for supporting the fabric with the body portion thereof in a plane at an angle to the line of reciprocation of the needle, whereby said needle will penetrate said fabric, means for turning the edge portion of the fabric to be covered at the stitching point. so that said edge portion lies in a plane substantially parallel with the line of reciprooation of the needle, means interlocking tbe seme with the needle thread for engaging the needle thread loops and loops on one face of the fabric und the for placing the seme against the face of the Shanks of 'the same loops on the other face 10 bent port-ion of the fabric opposite that of the fabric.

5 passed by the needle as itpasses to penetrate In testimony whereof I allix .my signatlie fabric, and means for placing a loopen ture. thread along the edge oi the fabric and for @HARLEY THERO. 

